I paddled in from the peak and dropped in to a glassy wave going left. I pulled up into the middle of the face and ducked down as the wave curled over my head for several seconds. I heard the sound of the wave change signifying I was encircled in a tube of water. The wave at my heels collapsed and a rush of wind and water spit me out onto an open face. Part of the wave in front of me already broke, but instead of kicking out as I usually did, I went up over the top of the white water and dropped a good 6 feet down into the white water and managed to stay on my board. I skirted under the white water to get back onto a clear face and continued my ride.
I had that wave wired. There are tons of new things under the sun for me every day.
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